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Posted on August 1st, 2007 by Zach.
Categories: General, Sustainability, Pop-Culture.
So I have had this small secret goal to make everything I wear have some sort of environmental story - Organic fabrics, low toxicity, made locally, or by Co-Ops somewhere for a fair price, recycled materials - you know, all that hippy crap. The challenging part has been that it has to fit into what I like to wear. I am not a big Tie Dye or Birkenstock wearer, I don’t really like the traditionally “natural” look. No offense to that stuff, but it just not my scene.
Oh yeah, I also hate to shop. There is almost nothing worse than trying stuff on in a store. It sucks; nothing ever fits right, you have to spend the whole day just to find one or two things you like, in the end it is always the most expensive thing in the store that fits the best. I mean, come on I am on a start-up budget here people, I can’t be buying expensive clothing. So generally anything I can do to reduce my time in a clothing store is great.
I have been trying to work this into my clever plan by looking for things that can be worn for more than the six minutes that fashion trends seem to last these days. This concept of the “timeless classic” is probably harder than trying to find eco-fashionable wares. It rarely exists, so in the cases where I am buying on trend I have been trying to buy only one of those things and wear it into the ground. (This is known to many of us the River’s Vest Phenomenon - sorry for the inside joke)
No industry has been more successful with the concept of “planned obsolescence” than the fashion industry. Very clever of them, the clothes don’t wear out in their plan - they just go out of fashion. This is brilliant! Basically you shame people into not being cool becuase their clothing is 3 months old. Fashion is the most second grade concept in adult life.
By the way, that Juice Bag of yours is SO last season, have you seen the new Daylight Series?
This is probably more than you ever wanted to know about the little secret plans I come up with when I have to much time on my hands (and, let me tell you, have I got a million of ‘em…). Nevertheless there is some cool stuff out there right now, and my little task has been greatly reduced. Thought I would take some time to point out some of my favorites.
American Apparel Sustainable Edition
Patagonia
Simple Shoes
Terra Plana
Shoes are the hardest, but I just got a pair of WornAgain sneakers from Terra Plana (big up to Riv for the gift). Love these things, I have them on right now. Recylcled rubber soles. Leather from that used to be waste product. Recycled cloth innards. Designs with some funk, how can you beat it!
As I sit blogging in a coffee shop in San Francisco (could I be more of a stereotype right now?), I am feeling right at home with my shoes. At one with the shoe universe you might say. Now hopefully they will be on trend for the next 15 years.
They will right?
Tags: Edun, Loomstate, Levis, Nau, Patagonia, Mission Playground, Simple, American Apparel, Terra Plana, clothingPosted on July 18th, 2007 by Zach.
Categories: Sustainability, Systems of the World, Pop-Culture.
I managed to watch a fair amount of the Live Earth extravaganza, here are some quick thoughts:
- Maybe time has marched on, but I didn’t get the same cultural buzz off the concert that the African Relief shows did in the 80’s. Not sure why, but the whole thing felt a little hollow. (Except for Wembley, see point 3)
- The transition sequences, little movies, and statistics were awesome. Not sure who did all of them, but they rule. They felt like they had tangible significance. Loved it.
- It was so obvious how the venue setup matters. Giant stadium seemed energyless for most the most part. The floor area all had seats and they were FAR from the stage. In contrast Wembley looked so impressive. It had huge energy and just seemed crazy cool. Even the smaller venues seemed to work better than Giant Stadium - Brazil looked so fun. But then a free concert on the beach in Rio? How is this not fun?
- Foo Fighters ripped it up. Those guys put on the best set of the concert - by far.
- Bob Geldoff is grumpy someone stole his idea. Check this bit from Treehugger. Love that picture. When did he last sleep?
Ah Live Earth - concerts for the planet. Such an easily ridiculed concept, with such huge implications for the future.
It’s just hard. Hard to watch Madonna tell me that it is time to pay attention to the planet. It has the feel of being chastised by your Mom for not cleaning your room. You know you probably should listen, but this Xbox…is just…sucking…your attention…away…
Time Magazine has a good piece on the concerts - both the good and the bad. An interesting argument comes up in the piece, one that is growing I think. It’s surmised by this quote of Arctic Monkeys’ drummer Matt Helder: “We’re using enough power for ten houses just for lighting,” Arctic Monkeys’ drummer Matt Helder told AFP. “It’d be a bit hypocritical [if we played].”
Hmmm, I wonder if they feel hypocritical every time they play, or just this particular time when highlighting climate change. Sorry I digressed there.
The truth is he’s right. In some ways it would be best if this concert didn’t go on. Massive reduction, conservation and efficiency are the greatest sources of potential energy in the world - especially in the US. Reducing our consumption - less travel, fewer products purchased, reduced electricity use - these things would make the planet we live in fundamentally better.
I started wondering why this quote bugged me so much. I realized it’s because the issue hits so close to home. We produce a product that we call “green”. The Juice Bag incorporates a solar panel for charging your phone, iPod, etc. In our ES line we source recycled fabrics for the bags. But like the Live Earth concert, it is partly true that the world would be less impacted if we didn’t design, produce, or ship a Juice Bag to you.
The flaw in this logic is that as a society we are not consuming less. Concerts for entertainment go on - the Arctic Monkeys will tour all over the world, come climate change or not. People camp out for the “Must Have” gadgets like the iPhone. I drove to work today. These are the realities of our world. These are the systems we live in.
It’s what we have, and while it is nice to dream of consumption disappearing into thin air, the reality is that our consumption is getting worse not better.
So the question is how do you begin to make that transition from where we are, to where we want to be? To a less consumptive place.
I think it begins with systems we use every day. Around Reware we dream of the day where every bag bought is made from recycled materials. Where the process Nau is using is the norm in clothing manufacturing. That it would be expected by the consumer. Sure we would still be buying too many bags as a society, but we will have begun the transition to reduction.
Recycled fabrics and solar panels create what we like to think of as an entry point for consumers to expect this type of thing from their products. We are still buying too much, but we have at least started to think about our system. This sets the stage for the next set of changes we have to make. Recently the New York Times had a good piece looking at this concept.
The crucial point, I think, is at the end of the article. Entry points (done well) really work in this context of transition. Central to the argument, there are a set of social marketing studies that show people who are consuming organic products, are attempting to incorporate other climate mitigation strategies into their daily lives. I can’t find a link to the one I was reading, if anyone has one of these studies send it my way and I will post it.
From our own experiences (and I may have used this anecdote before); we once sold a Juice Bag at a solar show in Arizona. The guy came back the next day and said “This thing works great for my phone, do you think I could power my house like this?” That is a good day for us, and a successful entry point into sustainability through consumer goods.
Entry Point theory is a tricky marketing business though. EPs have to be easily accessible to a wide market regardless of politics, socio-economics, or geographic location. They have to make transition strategies fun and engaging for people who live busy lives. Entry points have to create the same feel for consumers that the iPhone has - A sense of belonging, of identity, of excitement, in product - a hard thing to create in any context. If only we could get Apple on board with some of the eco-theory…
But, this is where pop-culture can be such a powerful tool. And this is where Live Earth matters. Now it wasn’t perfect, some of the artists were annoying and self rightous, but when is that not true? For one day the words “climate change” were on millions of peoples collective minds - whether they liked the idea, or hated it. Climate Change was everywhere. And that is an amazing feet. Amazing.
Like Reware, like Wholefoods, like the Prius, the concert had its impact on the environment that was not ideal. The critical debate should not center around this, the debate should be more around Bob Geldoff’s grumpiness. Did the concert create a successful entry point for people wanting to find out more about sustainability, or did it fail to capture the imagination?
Now that is a question which matters..
Tags: Live Earth, Entry Point Theory, Marketing, Green Products, Arctic MonkeysPosted on June 18th, 2007 by Zach.
Categories: Sustainability, Industry, Pop-Culture.
This title looks like I am going to rail on people that are too lazy to care about the environment.
Not True!
No, as I have voiced here before, I am at my fundamental core - lazy. With so much change going on in the world I often feel like I just need a nap. Really it is the personal decision making process that is so exhausting. Should I get the Organic socks, or the recylced ones? Is a hybrid better or worse than running Biodiesel? What if my ethanol is from a corn based feedstock and not Switch grass or cellulosic waste product? Does that make me a horrible person? Should I reclaim some furniture that looks bad or buy new sustainable harvest wood designs?
Can you hand me that pillow, I’m just going to lie down here for a sec…
Fortunately there are many people out there to guide us through our new enlightenment. A Beacon of Green Light as it were. One great example just came out:
The Lazy Enivronmentalist’s Guide to Green Living.
Full Disclosure: The Author Josh Dorfman is a friend and has always been a great supporter of Reware.
Here is what I love about Josh’s approach in everything he is doing: Environmentalism comes across as accessible to everyone, with a complete lack of “holier than thou” speak. He makes this stuff fun and the book reflects that approach. I totally recommend it as a easy starting point to figure out how to work some of this stuff into your life.
This is Josh’s first book, but he has become a bit of a green media mogul - you can check out his Radio program on Lime (Sirius Satellite). Both are good, interesting places to start in the green thing.
And most importantly none will make you feel like you need to lie down for a bit.
Tags: Josh Dorfman, Lazy Environmentalist, nappingPosted on May 14th, 2007 by Zach.
Categories: Sustainability, Systems of the World, Industry.
When Socially Responsible Investing (SRI) first started to grow there was inherent challenge that had to be overcome: If a company like Nike was recycling their shoes and a significant leader in waste reduction, but employed 10 year olds for 20 cents a day, were they an acceptable investment? Some people would say; “Yes, the environment is all that matters and Nike is doing a good job innovating on that level.” Others would say; “No, how can you claim to invest in a socially responsible way if you are abusing the labor force that is making the product?” To their credit Nike has made progress on their labor practices over the years, but the reality of these reactions is that both are correct and this ended up being a major barrier for SRI breaking into the mainstream.
The solution that was developed over a number of years was really quite ingenious in a free market sort of way - let the consumer decide what matters. SRI managers have created issue based filters for investing. Care about the environment? Here is a list of companies that are acceptable using that filter. Is labor your issue? There is a filter that fits. In many cases the filters have become even more nuanced allowing consumers to associate different “weights” to each issue based on their own priorities. Combine that with more traditional investing filters (Risk analysis, Diversification, Sector investing, etc.) and you have a very smart approach to the investment process.
This has been incredibly successful, and we have watched SRI fund management grow to exponentially as a result.
I bring this up because Reware is struggling with similar issues as a company. We like to think that we are part of a shift in product creation. We try to integrate concepts that matter in the world - local production, low toxicity, recycled material science, a little environmentalism, minimal packaging, and so on. Basically with every product, we would want a narrative that falls within our vision of next gen product design. This is what we believe is good for the world, and we know this is where the money is. We are after all in in this thing both to change the world and make money, pro-market force peeps that we are.
The annoying thing about being what’s next, is that the systems of the world are conspiring against you pretty much at every turn. As a small company we don’t have the resources to force our vendors to adjust to our needs. And this is a hard thing, something that I am sure Patagonia struggled with in the early days, that Nau is going through, and Arbor Sports has had to deal with. Everyone trying to adjust the status quo in product design runs into these systems like a brick wall.
A tangible example:
Right now we make three lines of solar bag. Our favorite is the ES line. With three styles (Daypack, Messenger, and Backpack) and three or four colors, we sew these bags in Texas. The quality is second to none and that is always an important factor. Plus the best part of this line is the fact that all the fabrics are made from recycled soda bottles. It is a bag that fits all of our goals - Production in the US, recylced fabrics, solar on the front to charge to gizmos - pretty great right?
Thank you, I will accept your humanitarian award, but please hold the applause.
A down side to this fabric is that it is not currently in wide distribution. What this means is that there is a limited supply in the marketplace, production keeps shifting from one factory to another, and the low toxicity dyes and process pieces don’t always work quite right. The company we work with to sew the bags struggles because they too are doing something that has never really been done and these barriers screw up production. This is a problem because often we cannot rely of a steady stream of bags. We then cannot offer these bags to larger clients because we worry we will not be able to supply them. I feel my ulcer flaring up just writing about it.
So problem #1: Production of the environmental fabrics is amazing, cool to be a part of, but sometimes unreliable.
The answer for us has been to use a more traditional system of sewing with a great company in North Carolina. Still in the U.S., but made for the most part from traditional Denier or Ballistic nylon. Still with the solar. So we have lost the recycled fabric piece with this style (we are experimenting with some organic fabrics), but gained reliability of production. This gives us the ability to sell more widely and have more faith that we can deliver. Plus making in the US we have a 4 week turn around for the most part, meaning that our response to the market is fast. Really fast. Speed and reliability comes at a price though and it is a steep one. The bag we sew in NC we could probably make in China for a 1/5 the price. That is a huge price discrepancy and effects the end cost to the consumer as well as our bottom line.
Problem #2: North Carolina is expensive
Anyone who manufactures overseas will tell you that product development is a headache - especially if you are a small company. The reality is, China is just far away and that leads to complications. No offense to Mr. Friedman, whose picture of the flat world is a good one, but in my experience it not so much seamless as navigating the seams themselves. You basically need a person on-site that you know and can communicate effectively with. Or you need to go yourself, and often. But there are huge benefits - the low costs are the primary one. This may seem cold because we all like to think that we would pay more for our stuff. The reality is that we will not. We have an idea about what things will cost and as consumers, we will not deviate from that. This is why China is booming, and industries like sewing are disappearing for the US. It just is what it is, and there is no avoiding it.
Problem #3: Overseas production is complicated for small companies. It has long lead times per order. We have to worry about labor conditions, and environmental usage.
So there is no silver bullet here that solves all of our problems. This is and will become reoccurring theme of the fundamental industrial shift we are going through as a country, as a world. There is no single solution in Energy, in Waste, in Water Conservation - in a every area it will take a basket approach to solve problems.
So our dilemma has been this - How do you quantify the narrative of your products? Is a future bag made in China of recycled fabrics better, or worse than a Denier Nylon bag made in the States? Is the fact that production is inconsistent for astounding products better than average products that are reliably produced?
What do consumers value most in their so-called “green” products?
For a while I have been agonizing over this, and in the end the SRI model that I love so much is a good starting point. We are attempting to create a matrix to products that allow the consumer to weight what is important to them. We will have products from overseas, we will have products made in the states. We will have expensive “Boutique” or “Limited Edition” uber green bags. We will have more traditional fabrics with solar on them.
In the end we will leave it all up to the consumer to work out what is most important. Hopefully we will grow to a level that we can dictate our needs to producers and get everything we want in one product. - and really what is more greenie-capitalist America than that?
Tags: product design, nau, arbor, patagonia, reware, Sustainable InvestingPosted on May 8th, 2007 by Zach.
Categories: Sustainability, Systems of the World.
Can I be any clearer than that? Let me try: I hate Blister Packaging with a fiery passion that knows no bounds. You know this stuff - every electronic gizmo comes in it. It’s a clear plastic shell that is totally impenetrable, the Fort Knox of packaging. If you were stuck on a deserted island with no tools and had to get it open to eat, you would either starve to death, or else die accidentally slicing an artery on the razor like edges.
I mean is there anything quite so stupid? It is such a nightmare, people are developing special tools to open this kind of packaging. Check out this one.
Pretty smart, but according to an article I read, the tool comes in Blister Pack. Great. Still dying on the island.
Vendors love this stuff I guess, and factories make the packaging process easy (plus there is no currently viable alternative, so the point is moot). If I order a pallet of items from overseas, not only do I get my product all packaged up coming out of the factory, but they will put my branding and instructions in the thing so I don’t have to do any assembly afterwards. You would not believe what a hassle reduction that is for a company. And reduced hassle is my dream come true these days.
Blister packing protects the products from damage really well too. Plastic really can get fairly beaten up and still look decent on an in-store display.
You want to experience waste? In my life it is when stores send back product because the PACKAGING is damaged. I love this, it always makes my day - the product is fine, it is just the protective shell that is beaten up. What? But this is not a knock on the stores. People don’t buy things with beaten up packaging. They just don’t. This may sound like stupid reasoning, but I have recently learned a lot about how people buy in stores (myself included) and presentation means a whole lot, it may be the only thing that matters in many cases.
It is hard to steal anything that is contained in Blister Packaging and that is a plus, but this is mainly due to the fact that there is so much plastic around the product. As an example, I recently bought a set of earbud headphones. There was at least double the amount of plastic in the packaging than in the product itself.
These aren’t the ones exactly, but you get the idea.
Douglas Adams once announced that a society which had instructions on toothpicks was broken. Me? I think when the material in packaging exceeds the product, we are all in big trouble.
What is truly excellent is that our plastic trash will be here a while. This stuff sits around for the odd 3-6 thousand years. It is typically a low grade plastic too which cannot be recycled. Instead we throw it away about 12 seconds after tearing into it as consumers. Broken System Alert.
The worst part of the whole thing is that plastic is made of petroleum. In an age where oil is getting more and more valuable, it is insane that we use so much in such useless situations. Thinking about the Oil economy takes up way too much of my time these days, but at least it is usually based around situations where Oil is being used because there are no other systemic options. This is true in packaging of course, there are no other great options, but it seems like this is a fairly easy systemic fix. Proof yet again that if I was a billionaire it would be fun to start the next generation plastics lab. There is no reason packaging has to stay around the way it does. And maybe we could save the oil for, you know, driving firetrucks around or something?
Next up in the Packaging Vent-A-Thon: Cardboard….
Tags: packaging, Peak Oil, Shift, broken systemsPosted on March 22nd, 2007 by Zach.
Categories: Sustainability, Pop-Culture.
Big Al was back on Capitol Hill yesterday testifying on the environmental changes we need to start thinking about - or that we should have started planning for 20 years ago. And true to form, Senator Inhofe stuck his head in the sand and pretended that everyone else around him was lying. Love that guy - denial is a wonderful thing.
I’d really be interested to hear Malcolm Gladwell’s take on “An Inconvenient Truth”, from where I sit that movie has fundamentally shifted the debate on the environment. Obviously this doesn’t lead directly to changes for the better, but it is huge push. What made it so effective, was that the concepts were broken down into clear concise pieces. Seems like all of us who work in renewable energy, environmental issues, and sustainability should take a lesson from this thing:
Make. It. Personal.
Make it matter to the everyday lives that we all live.
In 2004 I helped advise a couple of different groups on making the environment an issue for voters. In the places we were successful (and we had mixed results), I think it came down to one thing - The Environment was not an issue itself, it is a component of everything else we do in life. When taken as a whole, the issues seem huge, scary, and disheartening. But when added to the issue of National Security, or combined into a Jobs Creation Bill, Riverside cleanup, School Health, etc. The evironment gets its due.
In everything we do with Reluminati, we say that it doesn’t matter why people came to the table, just that they came. Environmentalism belongs to all of us across the political spectrum. It exists in every facet of of our lives.
Grist recently ran an interview with Frank Luntz who, in my opinion, has done more for the Inhofes of this world than is healthy. That is what hired guns do, they go where the money is. Say what you want, Luntz is good at messaging and his style of encapsulating messages certainly got this Bush elected - And let me say right now that if you can get this crew elected, you are very good at your job. Enviro’s may not want to hear from Luntz, but he is on point in the piece. In a nutshell - Enviro’s usually come off as holier than thou, and everybody loves Polar Bears.
A very wise friend of mine who used to craft legislation on the Hill once told me that when trying to get bipartisan support for something - “Nobody votes against Puppies and Orphans”. What he meant I think is that every change has to pull the heart strings of its audience. It has to affect them on a personal level. He also meant that when trying to make governmental change, voting against the bill has to look like a bad P.R. hit, but I suppose that’s a personal effect as well.
Point is that Luntz’s Drowning Polar Bears are a messaging tool, a tangible example of the melting of the icecaps. They are a small, personal mechanism for getting a larger agenda out into the world. Also importantly they are not steeped in an “I am better than you” dialog.
I consider myself an Enviro, and even I hate much of the messaging out there on this stuff - one of my personal peeves are holier than thou people and it never really matters after that what they are holier than me about. I just hate it, I find it snobby and self important, and I find it happens a lot in the Enviro world.
Gore’s movie is effective because it both avoids “the holier than thou” approach, and it makes the issue seem very personal. It works as a messaging tool, and works well.
A personal side note - We did a trade show recently where a guy came up to the booth and angrily demanded to know whether we donated all of our profits to solar research. We gave him the nice speech about how we did not do that, but how we try and support different efforts in the field. He looked at us in disgust and said he didn’t have any use for our products and stomped away. Now I probably have some views about what should be done with energy production in this country that are similar to that guy, but I tell you in my younger more impetuous days I would have beaten that guy senseless with his own woven sandal.
I am older now though and recognize this as facet of the issues that truly matter to me. This is one of the dark sides of environmentalism. It is an important road block to make things better in this country. It is a stereotype that is an effective tool for people who want to dismiss Environmental concerns. The Holier-than-thou Jackass that barely lived through our encounter impacts my world.
After the Green Oscars this year, and after “An Inconvenient Truth” won, the anti-messaging became very cohesive. It was constructed around the image of that Jackass at the trade show. The image of Leonardo DiCaprio and Gore as big Hollywood and DC claiming to be better than everyone else. It works fairly well as a message I think, partly because much of the world thinks that about Hollywood and DC types in general.
It also works because of a phenomenon that I have never quite understood: The idea that if you try and be green, but are not perfect at it, or do not have all the solutions in place, you will absolutely get killed in the media - a fascinating concept and one that probably deserves its own post.
But Leo and Al have to adjust to this stuff, as do we all. Those two doing are good things - things that matter to the health of of our society, and their messages have been effective in changing perception. I think the adjustment is somewhere in this concept:
We all have impact on the environment - Hollywood Stars, DC Politicians, Investment Bankers, Farmers, Soccer Mom’s, Schoolkids - all of our actions are part of the problem, but also part of the solution. No one has all the answers, or is perfect, and so we all have to work together to solve this crisis. Al Gore’s house might be too big, Leonardo might have taken a private plane once. I have a set of friends who own SUV’s that get terrible gas mileage. My friend Josh Dorfman over at The Lazy Environmentalist once confided to the world that he absolutely hates recycling.
Me? I like to ski, I travel by plane a ton, I sometimes take excessively long showers that use way too much water, among probably a million other things. None of us are perfect and we are not exempt from the problem, but that doesn’t prohibit us from caring what happens to our communities, to our country, and to our planet.
Some of the things that need changing are within our grasp, but we need direction for those changes:
How do I make my kitchen less impactful and healthy for my kids?
See what I did there?
I wrapped environmentalism into children’s health.
God am I clever.
Some of the issues are larger than us, more systemic:
How can I, as one person, affect carbon emissions? It is so much bigger than me. I don’t want my morning commute to be effecting the Polar Bears, but I have to drive to work.
See what I did there?
I really am quite a genius.
So these might be weak examples, but you get the point -
Make it simple.
Make it about the community.
Make it about problem AND solution
Make it personal.
Puppies and Orphans.
Tags: Al Gore, Leo, Oscars, Messaging, Frank Luntz, Puppies and Orphans